11. Kakadu
We spent a week at Kakadu National Park. There seem to be many mixed opinions about Kakadu (we heard the expression “Kaka-don’t”). I think it was a great part of the fabric of seeing Australia. We got to hear from numerous indigenous people, see a lot of rock art and marvel at the wildlife in the wetlands.
We started with a day trip to Mary River National Park to see its wetlands before heading next door to Kakadu. While at Kakadu we did a couple of tours - an indigenous food tour and a day into Arnhem Land. Both tours were a little shambolic but also definitely worthwhile. In Arnhem Land, as well as seeing a lot of rock art, our guide took us to a burial site where we were shown the remains of an elder (they are not buried, but are placed behind a rock).
For the seventh time in our trip we ran into Guy and Adam. This will be our last encounter on the trip I think as they headed back to Melbourne for a break in their trip and now our paths are diverging. They have been great company whenever we see them. They had and interesting experience since we last saw them - the brakes on their Landcruiser completely failed while coming down a hill towards a single lane bridge in an 80 km zone near Lake Argyle. They were towing their caravan which weighs more than 3.5T. Guy stayed calm and used the caravan brakes to slow the vehicle down, then the car gears and then the handbrake. Well done to Guy.
During our time in Kakadu I had to run back to Darwin to get the front right-hand suspension replaced in the car (we had been waiting for the new suspension to show up). When I was driving back from Darwin I was thinking how pleased I was that the car and caravan were all sorted when I got a flat tyre. I changed the tyre, and was fortunately able to have it repaired in Kakadu rather than having to drive to a large town and purchase a new one.
When changing the car tyre I needed some help to (a) get the spare wheel down from the bracket on the canopy, and then (b) later to put the damaged wheel up on the bracket. While I was on the open road, I had stopped near a petrol station. As usual, people were very happy to help. I think that has been a feature of the trip - people helping each other. (Even last night I was plugging in the caravan at an overnight stop and my power cable was not long enough to reach the power point. Someone noticed this, came over and gave me their spare power cable to extend mine.)
Mary River National Park: We did an airboat ride through the wetlands.
Mary River National Park: How awesome is that boat
Mary River National Park: Stopping amongst the water lilies
Mary River National Park
Mary River National Park
Mary River National Park
Mary River National Park
Mary River National Park
Mary River National Park
Mary River National Park
Mary River National Park: Folding up a flower
Mary River National Park: The buffalo is an introduced species which had a massive impact on early indigenous culture and on the food chain
Kakadu: Sunset from Ubirr
Kakadu: Sunset from Ubirr
Kakadu: Sunset from Ubirr
Kakadu: Ubirr rock art
Kakadu: Ubirr rock art
Kakadu: Ubirr rock art
Kakadu: Sunset from Ubirr
Kakadu: Ubirr rock art
Kakadu: Ubirr rock art
Kakadu: Ubirr rock art
Kakadu: Animal Tracks indigenous food tour. For the seventh time, we bump into Guy and Adam
Kakadu: Animal Tracks indigenous food tour. We had a flat tyre in the tour bus on the way over to the site. Guy cannot help himself - he was right in the thick of sorting it all out
Kakadu: Animal Tracks indigenous food tour. Dirty feet are a feature of our trip.
Kakadu: Animal Tracks indigenous food tour. Patsy, our indigenous host, cooking the goose
Kakadu: Animal Tracks. Adam plucking the goose (a long way from last year being in front of audiences as a principle dancer for the Australian Ballet)
Kakadu: Animal Tracks indigenous food tour. Patsy preparing the goose
Kakadu: Animal Tracks indigenous food tour. Patsy preparing the buffalo
Kakadu: Animal Tracks indigenous food tour. Patsy showing how to create fibre for weaving
Kakadu: Animal Tracks indigenous food tour. Sumy and Millie trying to create fibre for weaving
Kakadu: Animal Tracks indigenous food tour. Don preparing the fire
Kakadu: Animal Tracks indigenous food tour. Cooking the meal (not a lot for the vegetarian)
Kakadu: Animal Tracks indigenous food tour. Guy and Adam enjoying the sunset
Kakadu: Animal Tracks indigenous food tour. Sunset
Kakadu: Animal Tracks indigenous food tour. Grace capturing a photo of sunset
Kakadu: The famous Cahills Crossing. There is a road which is covered with water at high tide (here the tide has risen over the road but is not yet at high tide). The crocodiles come and wait for fish which are swept downstream over the road. Those small dark lines on the right are all crocodiles. I would not fancy driving across here when the water rises - if you come off the edge the crocodiles would welcome you like they would a fish.
Kakadu: Cahills Crossing. A crocodile moves over the road as the water rises
Kakadu: Cahills Crossing. A crocodile with its mouth open waiting for a fish
Arnhem Land: The rock art was just amazing. Here is our guide Roland explaining this large mural
Arnhem Land: Rock art
Arnhem Land: Rock art
Arnhem Land: Rock art
Arnhem Land: Rock art
Arnhem Land: Rock art
Arnhem Land: Up on the hill where we went to see the rock art
Arnhem Land: Roland telling a story
Arnhem Land: Overlooking the landscape
Arnhem Land: Roland showed us how ochre was used for painting. Here is he and my arm with some ochre
Arnhem Land: Rock art
Kakadu: Yellow Water. Up early for a sunrise tour of Yellow Water
Kakadu: Yellow Water
Kakadu: Yellow Water
Kakadu: Yellow Water
Kakadu: Yellow Water
Kakadu: Yellow Water
Kakadu: Yellow Water. That's a crocodile hiding in there
Kakadu: Yellow Water. The birds kept a weary eye on the crocodile and then moved on
Kakadu: Yellow Water
Kakadu: Yellow Water. Diving in for some fish
Kakadu: Yellow Water
Kakadu: Norlangie Ranger Tour. Sumy is listening and enjoying the talk (the young ranger was very good)
Kakadu: Norlangie Ranger Tour. Millie is not as captivated
Kakadu: Norlangie. Final piece of rock art. The ships are coming...