Karinjini National Park (24 - 30 May)
Leaving Exmouth for the long drive to Karijini National Park, we passed an overturned car and caravan resting on the opposite side of Route 136. Black skid marks suggested the car was travelling in our direction, swerved and had come to rest facing oncoming traffic. On its side with the roof ripped open, the caravan laid bare its interior (once a private sanctuary for its occupants) in full view of passing motorists. It was a confronting reminder of the potential dangers of towing a caravan.
We stayed at the Karinjini Eco Retreat where we had access to flushing toilets and washing amenities, but our feet would be covered in red dirt again by the time we walked back from our showers to the caravan. Luckily, we did not encounter any dingoes during our stay to apply our knowledge on what to do in such situations. One set of neighbours recognised us from Coral Bay but, in all fairness, I think our family composition makes us easily recognisable – particularly as there have been no Asian, let alone Chinese, campers on our trip thus far.
We learnt from another set of neighbours that they held a leasehold on a piece of land in the Leonora region where they prospected for gold. Based on our tiny sample of two camping couples, Justin and I concluded (which would be discounted by any reasonable person) that gold prospecting was not an uncommon activity among retirees. We also ran into Adam and Guy again (whom we first met in Geraldton) and had dinner with them before our departure the next day. En route to the Dales Gorge Campground, we stopped at the Karinjini Visitor Centre where Millie obtained her Junior Ranger Badge after learning about the Banyjima, Kurrama and Innawonga traditional owners of the land from Kaylene.
Popo did remarkably well hiking some of the amazing gorges at Karinjini National Park, all thanks to Justin’s patience in supporting her along the way. Here is my rating and summary of the various gorges we visited:
1. Joffre Gorge: A good beginner's walk and guide to Karinjini gorges. We turned right at the gorge base and inched our way along the gorge face to reach a dry waterfall. We clambered over the rock face to reach a narrow swimming hole in the other direction.
2. Weano Gorge: Unremarkable Lower Gorge walk (though Justin says I am too harsh). Unfortunately, the Upper Gorge and Handrail Pool were closed due to a millipede infestation.
3. Hancock Gorge: My favourite hike where we scrambled over rocks, waded through water and spider-walked between rocks to emerge at Kermit’s Pool.
4. Hamersley Gorge: Tiered water holes provided good swimming opportunities, with the upper pool boasting clear waters and the Spa Pool at its far end.
5. Knox Gorge: The most majestic gorge with its high, vertical walls. The walk was challenging, but very doable, with its steep vertical climb over loose dirt and rocks.
6. Dales Gorge: The pool at the base of the gorge resembled nature’s own magnificent amphitheatre. The Fern Pool was the most inviting of the water holes we visited as even I jumped into the water.