Maralinga to Esperance (3-5 Apr)
We left Maralinga in the morning for the long drive across the Nullarbor to Western Australia after spending the previous evening eating dinner and playing Bohnanza (German spelling) by torchlight. We realised our power reserves were quickly dropping after I ran the stove, oven and lights as if there was no tomorrow. We quickly conserved power by switching off all our lights and appliances (apart from the fridge) and made it to the morning. It was a good and timely lesson for our future off-grid days.
We continued our journey along the Eyre Highway which doubled up as an emergency landing airstrip in several sections of the road. We also saw three lone cyclists heading East in the direction of the prevailing wind. With the number of road trains on the highway, we marvelled at the drivers’ skills and pondered how hazardous the job must be. Along the way, we stopped to admire the Great Australian Bight before crossing the border into Western Australia and spending the night at the Eucla Roadhouse.
The next morning, we walked across sand dunes to see the old telegraph station and the Eucla Jetty before continuing our journey across the Nullarbor. During our lunch stop, we learned there had been a fatal road crash that very morning in which three truck drivers were killed near Yalata (a section of the highway we were on only the day prior). It brought home the potential dangers of, and the need to remain vigilant on, the roads. The evening was spent at the Balladonia Roadhouse, our last stop before Esperance which is where our travels will truly begin.
Adelaide to Maralinga (via Burra, Kimba and Ceduna) (29 Mar – 2 Apr)
After saying our good-byes to Max and Nanette over morning coffee, we left Adelaide for the multi-day drive to Maralinga where we would join a tour of the former U.K. atomic test site. We spent the first night in Burra, a former copper mining town, where Justin took pictures of the iconic house featured on Midnight Oil’s 1987 Diesel and Dust album. Albeit only a shell, the abandoned house has withstood the elements and the test of time to stand forlornly in the setting sun. We finished the day with dinner at the local hotel pub.
The following day, after another long and uneventful day of driving, we spent the second night at a roadhouse in Kimba. Despite spending many hours in the car, Millie has been remarkable on the trip thus far all thanks to Taylor Swift. As we continued our journey West along the Eyre Highway, we encountered many fellow caravan travellers who waved as we passed. There is a similar camaraderie among motorcyclists but sadly not among motorists.
Our third night was spent in Ceduna where our neighbour gave us useful walkie-talkie tips for communicating with the road train drivers when overtaking. That evening, we finished rigging up by displaying our UHF radio channels on the back of the caravan, getting the EPIRB ready and activating our Starlink account.
The next morning, we stocked up on provisions from the local supermarket before setting off for Maralinga where we would be off-grid for two nights. En route to Maralinga, we stopped at Lake MacDonnell (or the Pink Lake) where Justin took drone photographs for the first time. Long and dusty, the unsealed road to Maralinga left a blanket of thick red dirt on our vehicles. We were met at the Maralinga Village gates by our guide, Robin, who gave us a rundown of the tour. See Justin’s travel notes for details of the Maralinga Tour which covered an incredible period when Australian, British, world and Aboriginal histories intersected.
Sea Lake to Adelaide (28 - 29 Mar)
After Lake Tyrrell and some silo art, we made our way to Adelaide but not before having our fruits and veggies confiscated at the South Australian border. As we hurtled downhill towards the city, I could smell what I thought to be burning rubber. When we stopped at the lights (luckily literally around the corner from our caravan park), black smoke billowed from under the bonnet so we all jumped out of the car. Justin seized the fire extinguisher, I grabbed Millie and Millie rescued Bunny in the process.
The RAA, who suspected nothing more than overheated brake pads from the 8-tonne combined weight of the vehicles, followed us to the caravan park to make sure we arrived safely. By some minor miracle, given the long Easter weekend, Scott from Toyota Cheltenham managed to squeeze us in the following day. Somehow, he must have known Justin was on a schedule.
Our primary reason for visiting Adelaide was to see Max and Nanette (whom we met in Hong Kong) and Justin’s colleague Adrian and his family. We also took the opportunity to sort out some minor issues with the caravan, reorganised the cupboards and installed an extra towel rail in the bathroom. I would soon learn that there is always something to improve in our caravan set-up.
Melbourne to Sea Lake (26 Mar)
So here we are. After three years in the planning, we are finally setting off on our Big Australian Adventure. Actually, Justin did all the planning whilst I converted our caravan into a home. I don’t think Justin really appreciated all my efforts, but just wait until we run out of toilet paper, hanging space or clean sheets and towels. Just saying….
The lead-up to this day has been hectic with life admin, appointments, decluttering and cleaning. I have absolutely overpacked, but I take comfort in the knowledge that everything is at my fingertips. Anticipating that Millie will outgrow her clothes by the end of the trip, I’ve brought her entire wardrobe which added to Justin’s angst about the increasing vehicle weights. Justin reminds me that we can always pick up items along the way, but at least I won’t need to worry about running out of fresh undies for weeks.
I was very pleased with my systematic packing of the caravan until I had to cram the last of our belongings in every nook and cranny I could find prior to departure. It would take me some time through trial and error to re-home these orphaned items. At least our drive to Sea Lake was uneventful and, much to Justin’s relief, Millie and I survived the day. Millie has been adamant that this trip would “ruin [her] life”.
It will be interesting to see if and how each of us would change by the end of our travels. My personal goals on this trip are to get fit; finish books I’ve started; brush up on my Mandarin; play the keyboard; cross-stitch; maintain this diary; be present for my family; and learn to enjoy the moment. Justin also tells me that it’s okay to rest. But for now, I look forward to waking up without an alarm clock. Except tomorrow, when Justin will be dragging us out of bed for the sunrise at Lake Tyrrell. It’s on the spreadsheet.