Cape Leveque – Broome (12 - 17 Jun)
Although the sealing of the Broome-Cape Leveque road in 2020 has made Cape Leveque easily accessible, the peninsula has not attracted the tourist crowds of Broome. We stayed at the Djarindjin Roadhouse from where we visited the Indigenous communities of Beagle Bay (famous for its mother of pearl altar and internal decor), One Arm Point (for its hatchery and shell souvenirs) and Lombardina. Entry fees were charged by each community but access to their residential areas were strictly off-limits.
At the roadhouse, we met a young Masters student, Harry, who was on a field trip to understand the impact of the sealed road to the area. Although the road brought in more tourists, it also caused an increase in social, drug and alcohol issues among the Aboriginal communities with the ease of access to Broome and other towns. At the campsite, we met and shared some local damper with Nick and Kristy and their sons, George and Fergus. Millie, who does not warm up easily, took to the boys immediately and joined them for a game of Taco.
During our stay in Cape Leveque, apart from the Cygnet Bay Pearl Farm tour, we also joined Bolo Angus’ Southern Cross Cultural Walk Tour to learn about the ways of the saltwater people in Bardi-Jawi country. As part of the welcome to country, we, as guests, had to “announce” our arrival by washing our hands in the creek and wetting our head and armpits so that our odour permeated the environment. Bolo taught us about bush food and how to identify fresh water from the presence of algae in the water and palm trees along the banks. He also took us through thick mangroves in knee-deep squelching mud to collect pipis and led us to saltwater flats where we hunted for mud and blue swimmer crabs. What resonated with me was the Aboriginal people’s respect for, and belief in the partnership with, the land – only hunt and gather what you need and the land will, in turn, provide and nourish you.
After Cape Leveque, we returned to Broome primarily to stock-up and prepare for our trip across the Gibb River Road. Back at the caravan park, we found ourselves coincidentally a few doors down from Adam and Guy (whom we first met in Geraldton) and took some sunset photos with them perched on the roof of our car. In our final days in town, we went to the Courthouse Market (where I bought a lovely sandalwood and keshi pearl bracelet from a local artist) and to Cable Beach for a sunset camel ride and some boogie boarding which Millie could not get enough of. In fact, she would like to take up surfing as she wanted to find a passion “just like Adam with his ballet”. I was ecstatic to hear that to say the least (about the passion rather than the surfing)!
Whilst Justin took Millie to James Price Point for some drone photos of the iconic landscape, I pampered myself with a relaxing massage which was anything but as I compiled a shopping and to-do list in my head for the duration of my session. Back at the camp site, I had a good old chat with our neighbours, Alan and Maureen, who educated me on the annual migration of grey nomads up the west coast; the marked reduction of interstate travellers this year (reflecting the state of the economy); life in Carnarvon back in the day (including postal service by camel); and Maureen’s humbling stories about struggling families in remote Australia as a former teacher at School of the Air.
On writing this entry, I realised how much we had covered in and around Broome. Apart from our tours and excursions (not to mention our usual household chores, regular maintenance of the vehicles and homeschooling), Justin and I squeezed in a haircut to remain somewhat presentable and saw an optometrist about a stubborn pimple on my lower eyelid. The only regret was that Justin did not get the opportunity to join Greg Quicke’s Astro Tour as, we were to later find out, Greg had sadly passed away whilst we were in town.