Gibb River Road (Windjana Gorge / Dimalurru National Park) (18 - 20 Jun)
After leaving Broome, we stopped at the Boab tree-lined town of Derby to visit Sculptures on the Marsh (a public art project) and a couple of art galleries before embarking on the infamous Gibb River Road which was constructed in the 1960s to transport cattle from outlying stations to the ports of Derby and Wyndham. As we would have no or limited access to power, fuel, water, dump points and garbage bins, it was a matter of careful planning and management until we reach El Questro located at the other end of the road.
Our first stop was the Windjana Gorge campground from where we visited the gorge and Dimalurru National Park (Tunnel Creek) the next morning. All ready and decked out in our bathers, we realised upon arrival at Tunnel Creek that we had somehow missed the memo to bring head torches and pool noodles. Undeterred, we ventured on in the hope that rays of sunlight would make their way into the cave system and save us a trip back to camp. When blackness enshrouded us and the only way to proceed was to swim in pitch darkness, we reluctantly conceded we had to retrieve our gear and return later in the day.
By the time we returned to Tunnel Creek mid-afternoon, the crowds had mostly disappeared and I nervously wondered if freshwater crocodiles (renowned for perching on ledges inside the caves and probably curiously watching these humans file past) were more active at this time of day. As there were no signs to warn us otherwise, Justin and I entered the caves without Millie as we could not convince her to join us. We left strict instructions for her to remain at the cave entrance, no matter what, until our return.
Exploring Tunnel Creek by torchlight remains one of my favourite activities on the trip, but I couldn’t fully enjoy the experience for worrying about Millie. With the diminishing visitor traffic, I was intent on getting back to her as soon as possible and stormed through Tunnel Creek without being in the moment. In the process, I swallowed some stagnant water as I swam in the creek and destroyed Justin’s photo composition by disturbing the surface of the still waters.
When we reached the end of the tunnel, we clambered up some rocks and found the Aboriginal rock art which fellow visitors had told us about. Intelligence gathered along the way also proved extremely helpful in navigating the terrain, distances and water depths of the cave system. Relieved to find Millie waiting patiently for us and oblivious to my worries, I will look around for those lurking crocodiles if I were to return to Tunnel Creek in the future.